WATCH: Bluestem forest: A look at the way things used to be

The bluestem forest, located near Waldron, is being managed to provide the same habitat that was common throughout the Ouachitas prior to European settlement.
The bluestem forest, located near Waldron, is being managed to provide the same habitat that was common throughout the Ouachitas prior to European settlement.

Outdoor writer and photographer Corbet Deary is featured regularly in The Sentinel-Record. Today, Deary takes readers on a journey through the Ouachita National Forest's bluestem forest.

Well, I suppose one could accurately say that we are in the brunt of yet another Arkansas winter. And those of us who have lived in the state for any period of time aren't likely surprised at the frigid nights and cold days we are presently experiencing.

I'll step out on a limb and suggest that we should prepare ourselves for at least a couple more months of this weather, or maybe even worse. But the fact that more of the same lurks ahead is no indication that folks will eventually acclimate, and grow fond of cold weather. In fact, a lot of folks consider quick jaunts to and from the vehicle as more than enough time in the elements.

Sure, there are those who prefer the winter months. And there are those of us who, although do not necessarily long for cold weather, bundle up and still spend quite a bit of time in the outdoors. But we would far rather begin our excursions in a T-shirt and lightweight pants.

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Although our forests appear somewhat naked during the winter season, as the hardwoods are barren of leaves, they are still very special and pose beauty. The scenery is totally different, as the woods appear more open as a result of a leafless understory.

I don't suppose I blame folks for hunkering down during the wintertime months. However, taking refuge in the comfort of one's home is not necessarily the only answer to addressing the coldest months of the year.

We're fortunate in the sense that literally thousands of miles of public roads meander through our forests. And in turn, those of us who long to experience stints in the midst of Mother Nature during all seasons can simply embark upon a drive, remaining warm and toasty.

Having spent my fair share of time throughout Arkansas' national forests during my adult life, I have happened upon specific routes that have beckoned my return time and time again.

I was introduced to such a stretch of road near Waldron in the neighborhood of 20 years ago. Although this particular destination is rather small, in comparison to some of my other favorite drives, I can say with all certainty that it has more than plenty to keep me intrigued.

And why might I favor this section of the forest? Well, let's begin during another era. There was a time when the Ouachitas looked different and provided a totally different habitat from what we are accustomed to seeing today.

In fact, according to information posted on the Ouachita National Forest's website, "Travelers in this region prior to European settlement described the landscape as dominated by pine, pine-hardwood and mixed oak." Information posted by the agency continues that the forest was "fire-dependent" with "Floristically rich grass and forb understories."

The tree density, per acre, was far less than it is today, and their diameter was noticeably larger. The environment provided a suitable habitat for an array of wildlife to thrive, including elk and bison.

Although the Ouachitas are still bountiful with forest land, the understory predominantly consists of woody vegetation, while forbs and grasses are far less plentiful.

In turn, the Ouachitas are no longer capable of supporting the aforementioned large herbivores that once roamed freely. In fact, other native critters dwindled and eventually lost their foothold in our region of the state as well.

According to information posted on the federal agency's website, the reason for a significant change in our forest was twofold. First, a large-scale logging operation during the early to mid-1900s played a role in the habitat change, leading to the second reason.

The agency suggests that the regeneration following the harvest of the virgin forest included a strict policy on wildfire suppression. They continue by suggesting that policy has "largely remained in effect to the present, and the level of controlled burning that they practice on an annual basis, cannot sufficiently maintain the ecosystem that was prevalent prior to the aforementioned large-scale logging practices."

That in mind, the U.S. Forest Service initiated shortleaf pine-bluestem grass ecosystem restoration efforts throughout sections of the region. And the plan's management practices have certainly led to a change of environment throughout this dedicated section of national forest land in western Arkansas.

I was first introduced to the bluestem forest while on a photo assignment for a magazine. According to the information I received prior to the shoot, the environment had proved beneficial to the red-cockaded woodpecker.

This particular species had dwindled following the large-scale exploitation of the forest. However, the managed environment and steps taken to provide the species with suitable nesting accommodations lent to a come back. In fact, several mating pairs presently call this section of the forest home.

Of course, I was excited at the opportunity to kick around with the biologist throughout the day and capture images of the woodpeckers going about their rituals and recording their nesting habits.

However, I grew intrigued with the restoration area prior to reaching the destination where I was to meet up with the federal employees. I couldn't help but admire the beauty of huge pines towering over a sage understory.

It appeared to be a place where quail, whitetails, turkeys, predators and other native critters might flourish. But I was also enthused to find a habitat where I was confident that a plethora of wildflower species would flourish.

I have since returned to this location several times. In fact, I pretty much return to the bluestem forest annually, during the spring. And seldom have I returned home without several photos of vibrant wildflowers and butterflies. And let's not forget the day I managed to capture the mating rituals of two coachwhips.

However, I recently decided to return for a wintertime excursion. Although this was not the season to find any native plants making a showing, I still enjoyed the scenery. And although the wildlife didn't seem to be stirring, I did find pleasure in scanning the open woods for any indications of movement.

As always, I grew excited upon noticing marked trees, as I was aware that the orange paint was an indication of nesting boxes that had been implanted in the trunks. And I'm fairly certain that I heard a red-cockaded woodpecker singing in the distance.

Yep, my wintertime excursion to the bluestem forest was well worth the effort of loading up into my rig and embarking upon a two-hour drive to western Arkansas. And I'm already anticipating a return within the months to come.

To get to the bluestem forest, from the bypass travel west on Highway 270 for about 64 miles, and turn right onto Highway 71 at Y City. Remain on 71 for 6.2 miles and take a left onto Upper Buffalo Road at Needmore. Remain on Upper Buffalo Road, as it makes its way through a rural area, eventually crossing a low-water bridge and entering the forest. The road will begin its journey through the managed property shortly after crossing the bridge.

Modifications have been made to several trees throughout the bluestem forest to provide a suitable nesting habitat for red-cockaded woodpeckers.
Modifications have been made to several trees throughout the bluestem forest to provide a suitable nesting habitat for red-cockaded woodpeckers.

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